718.278.4853
If random internet trivia (from an unverified user review) is to be believed, a scene from Goodfellas was filmed at the Neptune Diner circa 1990. True or not, the diner is a neighborhood institution due to its longevity and high visibility from Astoria Boulevard (with two sides of the roof touting banners "Best Diner in Queens" and "Best Diner in New York City"--year unmentioned). I appreciated the nod to the (characteristically un-hip) diner in last year's NYTimes article about the prevalence of comedians in Astoria.
I've been to the diner twice now, the last time with Ryan, Sara, Bryant, and visitor Sam in tow. The best part of the experience may be the tacky-yet-coordinated decor, with colored lamps, blue vinyl furniture, a wall of mirrors and plentiful windows. The waiters (all are male) wear navy vests and bow ties, even at 2 a.m. Our waiter was a bit of a curmudgeon who shouted orders to a nearby underling and seemed resentful when Ryan pointed out that he had ordered a strawberry daquiri, not a strawberry milkshake. We found ourselves envying the overly friendly service by a different waiter directed at the table of semi-drunks next to us. Apparently nightlife at the Neptune depends upon the luck of the draw.
The most the diner has going for it is its 24-hour service, complete with lengthy cocktail menu (unlike other Astoria diners that don't serve alcohol). The food is cheap and plentiful, if poor quality, with pages and pages of menu ranging from breakfast to sandwiches and burgers to seafood and Greek specialties. The fresh sesame bread served prior to meals isn't outstanding, but it is warm and filling. But both times my entree has been underwhelming at best: a Swiss omelet that did justice to the description "greasy spoon," and a grilled cheese with tomato--the tomatoes were hard to the point of being inedible, and the accompanying cole slaw not to my liking. Ryan claims that the chicken and broccoli, doused in cream of mushroom soup, was just like something his mom or gramma would make--for better or worse. Bryant concurred that his food was like something you could eat at a family gathering--of dubious origin and nutritional value, but at least you didn't have to make it yourself.
There will probably be other late nights at the Neptune, but I certainly won't seek it out when craving actual sustenance. For vegetarians especially, a liquid-only order (the diner is named after the god of the sea) might be the best route.
1 petal
cheap, amusing decor, all night, alcohol; bad food
Photo copyright Ben Shirai, used with permission
No comments:
Post a Comment